Gua Sha 101: How and When to Use It for Sculpted Skin (2024)

A gua sha stone—also sometimes referred to as a jade scraper—is a little flat pebble of jade that can chisel out cheekbones you didn’t even know existed, de-puff hangover eye bags, and crank up the dial on skin brightness. But what exactly is gua sha and how can a small stone offer so many beauty benefits? We reached out to several skincare experts, including a board-certified dermatologist and licensed esthetician. Ahead, learn about the benefits and drawbacks of using a gua sha—plus, have all your face sraping technique questions answered.

What Is Gua Sha?

"Originally a body treatment, [gua sha] has since been adapted to [be] use[d] in facial therapies, with the scraping motion evolving to a gentler gliding technique," says licensed esthetician Ali Tobia. "The [face scraping] technique is based on an ancient healing technique called gua sha, which was first referred to in a classical Chinese medicine text called the Shan Han Lun dated 220 CE," Chinese medicine expert David Peters says. "Originally, practitioners wanted to obtain 'Sha'—redness that encourages the skin to heal itself," he explains.

Gua sha is a method that promotes lymphatic drainage, which helps to eliminate bloating caused by interstitial fluid (fluid trapped under your skin that needs to be released to your lymph system), explains Tobia. In other words, gua sha is good for you—and could have some additional benefits to your appearance.

Confused? Tobia describes the process of lymphatic drainage for us: "It’s like a garbage disposal. The interstitial fluids that collect beneath your skin need to be flushed into the body’s natural detoxification system. Gua sha works to move those collected fluids into the lymphatic system where they get cleaned and mixed back into your bloodstream."

"Unlike the circulatory system,” she continues, “there is no pump for the lymphatic system… By performing gua sha techniques, you are giving your lymphatic system the boost that it needs to rid yourself of the fluids that are stuck beneath the surface of your skin and causing your face to bloat.”

Benefits

While modern-day jade scraping might be less invasive, it can still have pretty impressive results. Benefits are often apparent even after the very first gua sha treatment, says Tobia.

• Stimulates Circulation: One pilot study found that gua sha can stimulate circulation in targeted areas. Anecdotal evidence has found that it could also help ease the appearance of cellulite by lowering fluid retention—though there's not quite enough science to back that up.
• Helps Produce Collagen: Anecdotal evidence has found that gua sha can help decrease puffiness and soften fine lines and wrinkles by helping the body produce more collagen—thereby brightening the complexion.
• Decreases Inflammation: Science has found that gua sha can help temporarily relieve pain and tightness in certain parts of the body—even leading to results that last. Those studies suggest that gua sha has an impact on inflammation (which often leads to pain).
• Diminishes Dark Circles: By helping soften fine lines and stimulating collagen, gua sha can help diminish dark circles (at least, temporarily) and temporarily tighten skin.
• Sculpts Facial Muscles: Used on the jawline and cheekbone area, gua sha can help release tight facial muscles and give the temporary appearance of a more sculpted face. It won't get rid of a double chin (it can't target fat), but it could help ease puffiness in the short term.

How to Use

"There are so many varieties and shapes of gua sha tools that there isn’t really a one-size-fits-all approach to how to use gua sha," Tobia explains. Plus, there are slight variations in how you'll use a gua sha depending on where on your body you are working (i.e. the scalp and lips will require different strokes than your face).

That said, there are some fundamentals to the facial gua sha process for all methods. According to board-certified dermatologist Rachel Nazarian, MD, the best method is to use gentle pressure and "apply even strokes against your skin, preferably in the direction of lymphatic flow."

In general, you can use the following steps to guide yourself through a gua sha treatment:

1. Select a gua sha tool with a shape that fits the curvature of the area you're looking to work.
2. Use an oil or lubricant to avoid pulling on the skin.
3. Use a gua sha map to identify where you should be working and in what direction.
4. Apply even pressure in the direction of lymphatic flow—this is where the map comes in handy.
5. Combine short and long strokes, following the same path three to five times before moving on to the next spot on the gua sha map.
   

"I like to use a combination of short and long strokes across the areas that need it," adds Peters. Lymph nodes are located beneath the surface of the skin. "An easy, feather-like stroke of a gentle facial gua sha technique is all it takes to flush the lymph into your body’s drainage system," Tobia says.The process stimulates lymphatic flow and drainage, releasing excess fluids that can make the complexion look a little, well, inflated.

How Often Should You Gua Sha?

While once a week is recommended for gua sha, the frequency of use will depend on your skin type and your skin’s tolerance for the method.“As you start to familiarize yourself with it and get more comfortable with your techniques, you should aim to use gua sha at least two to three times per week,” recommends Tobia. “Once you get into a routine of performing gua sha on yourself… you’ll achieve the best results doing it daily.”

At Home vs. In-Office Treatments

The experts we talked to repeatedly sang the praises of DIY, at home gua sha facials. However, if you're a gua sha newbie, it's a good idea to see a pro first. Along with experiencing the professional treatment, your esthetician can also help show you the proper technique to follow in order to achieve maximum results, says Haifa. Choose a goodgua sha tooland use it every morning for five minutes.First, apply a face oil or serum, thengently sweep the stone up the neckworking your way toward the hairline, focusing on the cheekbones and jaw; this helps drain fluid downward and promotes circulation, explains Haifa. The key word is gently—you don't need to apply much pressure at all in order to reap the benefits.

Ultimately, professionals are more well-versed when it comes to the specific and nuanced gua sha techniques that can be done on particular areas of the face; as such, an in-office gua sha facial will yield more dramatic results. But DIY-ing daily in-between appointments is a great way to both increase and maintain those results.

When to Avoid Gua Sha and Potential Side Effects

Gua sha is not recommended for those with rashes, sunburns, or blood coagulation issues. It's also worth noting that your skin may look a little pink or red for a few moments after a treatment (or bruise depending on the pressure and your susceptibility to bruising—but remember, gentle pressure is advised).

Does Gua Sha Hurt?

Keep in mind that, if done improperly, or with too forceful a hand, gua sha may be uncomfortable. But other than that, if done correctly, gua sha is a pretty safe bet for all skin types. (In other words, if gua sha hurts, you are likely doing it incorrectly). But as always, with any specific concerns, you should speak to your physician.

Gua Sha vs. Graston Technique

The Graston Technique is a form of soft tissue mobilization used to break down injured fibrotic and scar tissue. Often used by chiropractors, Graston is often conducted on the muscles, fascia, ligaments, and tendons—unlike gua sha, which often focuses on the face. The tools used with the Graston technique (which is a more modern technique than gua sha) are also rounded but made of stainless steel.

How to Choose Your Gua Sha Tool

Before you can begin, you'll need to select a gua sha tool of your own. There are three main areas of concern here: shape, material, and quality.

Shape

Nazarian recommends finding one that is smooth and rounded and fits the curvature of the area you want to treat. "It should be comfortable to grip," she continues, "so you can evenly apply the strokes to your skin."

Tobia recommends gua sha tools with varying contours on each edge "so that you can find the right curvature to fit the angles of your face," she explains. If this sounds daunting, keep Tobia’s wise words in mind: "When a tool has a few different angles and curves along its edges, that will provide you with more options, especially as you learn what works for you." The variety of contours will also allow you to use your tool on various parts of your face including your jawline and cheekbones, Tobia tells us.

Material

The material of the stone is also something to look out for. "Some stones have antimicrobial qualities that make them especially well-suited for facial techniques," explains Tobia. "Some, like those made from nephrite jade and amethyst," she continues, "are naturally cooling, which helps to counteract the warming effect of the technique (even with a gentle gliding motion, there is some natural friction that stimulates circulation and causes warmth)." Finally, Tobia recommends rose quartz for anyone with reactive skin because of its natural calming effects.

Determining Quality

Unsure if a gua sha tool is well made? "A quality tool made with authentic crystal or other natural material will often be of a slightly heavier weight than a knock-off or man-made synthetic tool," explains Tobia. "And while the weight of your stone will ultimately be a matter of personal preference, a heavier tool can help you achieve better results simply by being more substantial in your hand as you perform your techniques, which allows for deeper penetration (which provides greater stress/tension relief)."

Do you follow mysticism or have transcendental views on the power of crystals? If so, "many of the materials commonly used in high-quality gua sha tools possess properties that help clear your chakras and unlock your qi," explains Tobia.

The Takeaway

We have nothing but time to show us that this centuries-old approach is a skincare secret we should all be privy to. However, while gua sha is a great non-invasive technique, it cannot always be combined with other procedures. For example,"If you have had facial botox or injectables within the past three to four weeks, you’ll need to wait at least four weeks from your most recent injection before beginning a gua sha routine, and should never perform gua sha in the four weeks that follow any facial injections,” explains Tobia.

While gua sha can offer rewarding results, Nazarian reminds us that most of the visible benefits are temporary, so it’s important to incorporate it into your weekly routine if you wish to maintain the benefits.